PCB Mount Prosound V3 Tutorial
Table of Content
- Change Log
- Required Supplies
[0.1.0] - 2019-04-08
- Initial release
The following tutorial will guide you through the steps to install the PCB Mount Prosound V3 kit in your DMG Game Boy.
We assume you have basic soldering skills, that you know how to clean surfaces before soldering and that you already know how to add a backlight to a Game Boy. This guide will only instruct you on how to integrate the voltage regulator in your mod.
The wires we use are 30 AWG Silicone-Cover Stranded-Core.
NOTE: that the information given here is provided to the best of our knowledge at the moment of writing and could change over time. Anything you might do is at your own risk and we can't be held responsible if things turns out bad on your end. Attempt at your own risk.
- PCB Mount Prosound V3 kit
- Triwing & Philips head screwdrivers
- Solder Iron
- Desoldering tool
- Dremel or round files.
- Wet sandpaper (optional)
Disassemble your DMG, and focus on the back PCB.
Using your desoldering tool, detach the 4 wires on the daughterboard.
Make an effort to keep the wires intact, as we will be reusing these.
Using your desoldering tool, desolder the 3.5mm headphone jack from the board.
You can now discard the daughter board and focus on the PCB Mount Pro Sound kit.
Clean any residual solder off of the headphone jack to assure it will fit comfortably into the PCB Mount Prosound PCB.
Solder the headphone jack to the new PCB Mount Prosound board.
Fun fact: Most headphone jacks on the market have a “normally closed” switch to mute speakers. The DMG’s headphone jack is reverse to this. It also contains the plastic supports to secure it to the case, hence why we reuse it instead of replacing it with a new switch.
Insert the four wires from the DMG motherboard into the pro sound kit, and solder it together. Be careful of stray wire that may short out connections. We suggest adding flux to the wire tips to "reflow" to old solder and to allow for the wires to comfortably be inserted into the new PCB.
For wiring, we have labeled the left audio channel with an “L” on the board. The neighbouring pad carries the right audio line. There is no need to add ground, as the jack will share the ground connection with the stock headphone jack.
Solder to one of the following combinations:
This installation will allow you to mute the speaker by turning down the volume wheel.
The volume wheel will have no effect on the profound audio, and it will always output full volume. There is noticeably higher sound quality as well.
This installation will not mute the speaker, but the prosound output can be controlled with the volume wheel. The sound quality will be slightly worse than the pre-pot option.
Insert 2 screws for the Prosound board into the case to prepare for the creation of the hole.
At this point, there will be no more soldering or wiring. You may test the pro sound kit before proceeding.
For the hole, make a rough mark to indicate where you will cut. We generally begin this cut with a rotary tool, then proceed to hand filing, and “polish” it with wet sand paper.
Place the front shell on top of the Prosound kit and make a mark where the secondary jack is.
You can draw the rough shape off the cut. Make sure it is quite a bit smaller, as a lot of the refinements will be done with the files and sandpaper.
Using your rotary tool, make a rough cut for the jack. Be very patient during this step, and do not cut too far.
With approximately this much cut, we can move onto using our rounded file.
With a file set, we switch between rounded, and straight files while constantly checking the positioning.
After the case closes comfortably, you can take a small piece of fine wet sandpaper and begin to polish the cut. Wet the sandpaper and wrap it around a screw driver (or any suitable rounded utensil) and begin polishing the cut.
Once you are satisfied with the cut, you can clean up all excess debris, and being reassembling your DMG.
Congratulations! Now enjoy your sturdy, factory-looking prosound mod!